Waves

Description

Precision:

DISPERSION RELATION     SHOALING AND REFRACTION
Water depth (m) d
Current speed (m s-1) U
Period (s) T
Wavelength (m) L
Derived parameters
Relative angular frequency (rad s-1) ωr
Absolute angular frequency (rad s-1) ωa
Wavenumber (m-1) k
Wavenumber × depth kd
(Relative) phase velocity (m s-1) c
(Relative) group velocity (m s-1) cg

Specify one of T or L and calculate the other.

Deep-water wavelength (m) L0
Deep-water wave angle (deg) α0
Shallow-water depth (m) ds
Wave period (s) T
Deep-water wave speed (m s-1) c0
Shallow-water wavelength (m) Ls
Shallow-water wave speed (m s-1) cs
Shallow-water wave angle (deg) αs
Shoaling coefficient Ks
Refraction coefficient Kr
Wave-height ratio H/H0