Waves
Description
Precision:
DISPERSION RELATION
SHOALING AND REFRACTION
Water depth (m)
d
Current speed (m s
-1
)
U
Period (s)
T
Wavelength (m)
L
Derived parameters
Relative angular frequency (rad s
-1
)
ω
r
Absolute angular frequency (rad s
-1
)
ω
a
Wavenumber (m
-1
)
k
Wavenumber × depth
kd
(Relative) phase velocity (m s
-1
)
c
(Relative) group velocity (m s
-1
)
c
g
Specify one of T or L and calculate the other.
Deep-water wavelength (m)
L
0
Deep-water wave angle (deg)
α
0
Shallow-water depth (m)
d
s
Wave period (s)
T
Deep-water wave speed (m s
-1
)
c
0
Shallow-water wavelength (m)
L
s
Shallow-water wave speed (m s
-1
)
c
s
Shallow-water wave angle (deg)
α
s
Shoaling coefficient
K
s
Refraction coefficient
K
r
Wave-height ratio
H/H
0